Simple Meals and Mongolia's "Starbucks" Stand-in

All I had on hand was Bacon. It was Tasty!!

While I greatly miss how grocery shopping is executed in the U.S., there is something to be said for the simplicity of cooking in Mongolia. If you have meat and vegetables available, then you can make a decent and tasty meal.

In olive oil, fry up some meat with onions. Add water and bring to a boil, all the while adding salt, pepper, and some Vigora brand Universal Seasoning, my favorite thus far. Seasonings and spices come in small baggies here, unlike our small shakeable jars (shopping for them is impossible if Z is not with me). Then add the veggies (cleaned, peeled and cut up). Root ones first: carrots, potatoes and the like. Finally, some cabbage. Cook until everything is tender, then serve. (Mongols would also add rice or noodles--but I was craving LOTS of veggies and no wheat for this pot.) I had some random left over kidney beans in the fridge, so I threw them into this pot. Oh, and the smoked Russian string cheese was a nice side. Zorig and I finished the entire pot!

There is no Starbucks in Mongolia. Totally fine by me as Starbucks coffee is overly strong and bitter tasting to me. The stand-in for Starbucks is Tom N Toms. From their website, they are a chain coffee shop with stores mostly in Asia. I had my first Tom N Toms yesterday, an iced Americano. It was good. A curious, but nice touch, about coffee shops in this country is that they offer "sugar water"-- If you are being served, they will bring both a small server of cream and another of sugar water. At Tom N Toms they had both white and brown sugar water to choose from at their self serve station. Sweetening an iced drink has never been so easy. 

I am drinking less coffee since arriving to this country. Part of that is because, like everything else, our coffee maker is small. Just a 2 cup pot instead of the the 4-5 cup pot I had in the U.S. (oh...i know it says 10 or 12, but we all use bigger mugs these days!). I have those two cups in the morning and then move to drinking water. ASU provides filtered watered machines in our teacher lounges, as well as in the Teacher Barracks, er Housing, I mean. :)  I've visited a few of the apartments in the ASU Housing and have to say they are quite nice. 

As for school, I think this is going to be a GOOD year. The teachers have all been welcoming and supportive; the admin team is most capable and decisive, while also being supportive of everyone and their development. The students ARE adorable. 80% of our students are Mongolian, 5% are Korean, and then the rest are from a number of other countries, including: U.S., Canada, Australia, Taiwan, China, Japan, Thailand, Germany, South Africa, etc. With two days of Specials classes under my belt, I can say that working with 2nd through 5th graders will be an easy transition for me. They are FAR more curious and inquisitive than the older kids I've worked with, or rather, more outwardly expressive of their curiosity (the inner critic hasn't come into play just yet). BUT, the little kids, the PreK through 1st graders are going to take some practice and work. First of all, they have either NO English, or very little. Communication is difficult. And keeping them engaged or entertained is outside my comfort and knowledge zones. This is where I will stretch and grow this school year. 

Yesterday ASU bused all interested staff out to Terelj National Park for a staff retreat. We could hike, horseback ride, or generally just hang out and relax. Whatever our fancy was. I did partake in a one hour horseback ride and finally got to RUN free on this steppe. It was exhilarating! 

I snapped this shot from the middle front seat of the bus (a smaller bus, not traditional U.S. style bus. These probably seat about 20-24 people--if they put down the fold up middle seats)--which is where I rode for the ride back to the city. No seat belts required (except the driver put his on for driving past the police station), the passenger front door had to be opened from the outside, oh....and the speedometer didn't work at all. But the view was exceptional!

Farewell to Summer....

Cheers to a lovely Summer Vacation!

This week I toasted farewell to summer--a full seven weeks of summer--from Zorig's latest worksite. We had an impromptu gathering there to drink some beer and make some barbecue. It went down kinda like this....... Zorig called around noon on Tuesday and said, "Come." I said, "how?" He said, "get a taxi and I'll explain." After an initial resistance to the unexpected invitation, I thought, why not? I have just today and tomorrow left of my summer! 

Part of adjusting to LIFE IN MONGOLIA is embracing spontaneity. Mongolians are very much a go-with-the-flow people. They don't have personal calendars littered with engagements and appointments and obligations (anything more than 2 days out is impossible). They make their plans as they go and with the people they happen to encounter. I'm getting used to it. And each time an afternoon or day like Tuesday happens, I feel more free and more alive, as I am vibrantly engaged with people and being IN THE MOMENT for all it and they have to offer. And really, how many times have us girls wished our guy was more spontaneous? Surprised us? Whisked us off for an afternoon or evening....of which THEY planned or coordinated? Just sayin'.....I got it good over here. I do. 

But back to Tuesday.......After a 25 minute (and $8) taxi ride out of the inner city and into a suburb-like area to the north, I arrived to the worksite. One of the things I love about these smaller neighborhoods are the colors. The houses are a mix of wooden and concrete (concrete covered bricks.....looking a lot like stucco), and can be colorful, but more importantly, the ROOFS are colorful. This next shot (click on it to enlarge the image) I took on the drive back into the city around 7 pm. I get the sense that people like to show a little personality this way. Or.....maybe it is as a colleague says--a product of what is on sale or available. Who knows. But I like the way it looks. 

After spending most of Tuesday and Wednesday with Zorig, it was time to attend New Teacher Orientation. This is my third time to do so, but my first time overseas and at an International school. 

It takes me about 30-35 minutes to get to work by taking the bus (remember...just $0.25 a ride!). I walk 10-12 minutes to get to the bus stop, wait 0-10 minutes, have a brief 7-10 minute ride, and then a 10 minute walk on the other end. Totally do-able and it feels good to be out and about in the crisp morning air while the city is yet fairly quiet. It was in the 50s the last two mornings. This week was relaxed with a 9 AM start both days. Next week it will dial back to 8:30, and when the kids start (on the 27th) I have to be there by 8:15. I don't know yet if I'll continue to take the bus or coordinate with other teachers for car service in the morning. I plan to ride the bus or walk home.

It was nice to meet the other new teachers. There aren't too many of us this year, only four or five, and then another three that have worked here before and are returning (which speaks volumes about ASU!). On Monday ALL FACULTY are back for three days and then the school year kicks off on Thursday. More about all of that soon. 

For now I'll leave you with something new, thanks to Zorig, of course. This is "string cheese" from Russia and is similar  (same taste, changed in size and packaging) to something Zorig and Indra enjoyed as young children. Taste-wise, it reminds me of a heavily smoked gouda. It doesn't peel apart like American string cheese, but it IS flavorful and the format is fun to eat, just the same. 

Assorted Observations, Take 2

It's a cool and rainy day in Ulaanbaatar. Last night I was able to sleep to the sound of rain outside my window, AND able to leave the window open because the park was not populated with people talking and laughing in the wee hours of the morning. 

Because there is no good way to share the diverse observations that hit me at any and all times of the day, I rely on this simple Assorted Observations approach. Here is a bulleted list of more observations, since my initial such post on July 21st:

• The shells on eggs here are THREE times as strong at those in the U.S. I'm not sure what this means. Perhaps the hard water here provides more calcium and trace minerals to the chickens? I can't explain it....but I LIKE that they are so strong;
• After being here a month, I opted to purchase us a new bed for this new life together (A higher end bed and mattress was UNDER $500). Bed Sizes are NOT uniform. Depends on your location in the world. Learning to think in centimeters and not inches is a work in progress. (I found the bed and mattress at a place just a couple blocks away and the Mongolian owner speaks VERY good English. The brand of mattresses he sells come from China, but are also a lead brand in America. He explained that they are sold for a MUCH higher price to America because Americans want a "warranty" with their mattresses. People in Mongolia don't. I wonder how many warranties in America are actually worth the cost paid?);
• The schedule/routine of daily life yet makes me shake my head. The night before last, a Tuesday, there were SMALL children playing in the concrete park behind our apartment building WAY after 11 PM;
• Men here (from teenagers to the elderly) carry their woman's purse! I've seen them carrying teeny-tiny pink purses (teenagers) and large, chain-handled purses (more middle aged). Honestly, I think it's adorable. According to the AWC, this is a sign of commitment. It makes me think of the old days when boys asked to carry a girl's books to/from school for her.
• Markets are closed on specific days of the week. Example, yesterday I walked to Saruul to buy ground beef, only to see that the parking lot was empty. I learned today that it wasn't because it was late, it was a Wednesday and that's the day that Saruul (my preferred market so far) is closed.;
• They like their smiley faces here! I find them all over the place as the following picture illustrates. On manhole covers, toilet seats, even trees.

A trip to the Supermarket

So here's an "everyday life" type of post. I thought perhaps some of you might wonder what it costs to buy groceries here. I took a picture of my shopping trip to Nomin (supermarket located directly across the street in the State Department Store) on August 9th. My grand total for the following list of items was 69,115 MNT (Tugrik) or $34.82. The current exchange rate is 1,985 tugrik to 1 USD. Last summer when Dad and I were here it was 1,840. 

Here's what that purchased:

• Head of broccoli
• Bottle of wine ($6.36), (very drinkable--I'm yet experimenting to find what I like here. Most wines are from Europe or Australia)
• Box of apple juice
• Bag of potatoes
• 4 carrots
• 2 rolls of TP
• Carton of Milk
• Cream for coffee
• Chocolate
• small bag of chocolate animal crackers
• Spicy chicken marinade
• 5 chicken breasts (from the meat counter/deli for $5.62)
• 3 bell peppers
• 4 small yogurts
• small hunk of cheddar cheese (haven't tried it yet--continuing the hunt for good cheese)
• loaf of bread
• 10 eggs (this seems to be the standard Mongolian dozen)

There you have it. An "average" trip to the grocery store. 

Joining the Club!

AWC Members: Melanie, Tricia, me, & Michelle

 I'm the newest member of a little club here in Mongolia--the American Wives Club. These women are trailblazers and have already helped me to feel at home in my new land. 

We have a unique camaraderie....one I haven't experienced since I left the Army National Guard in 2003....and one I never expected to find in the civilian world. Granted, I'm only in the early stages of getting to know these fellow brave women--but upon first impressions I can say they are honest, candid, and compassionate. It's comforting to have others here that wear an American lens and to whom I can fully relate. While we certainly love our men, we also "get each other" in ways that Mongolians will never get us. That's the nature of being raised in another place, culture, and country. While we hail from different states--CA, CO, LA, and VA--we are Americans with a common background. 

We have a private group page on Facebook and interact most days. We've gotten together twice for lunch and message or text. Melanie helped me purchase and coordinate delivery of my new bookcase, and Michelle has been schooling me on the marriage application process. All three of them are helpful in learning locations (where is the library?) and where to find stuff (furniture, cotton balls, mattress pads, the best coffee shop in town, restaurants). 

Yes, it's good to be a part of this small, but growing, club. I look forward to developing these new friendships and expanding my life and networks here. As they say, friends are the family you choose along the road of life. I'm glad to know each of you.....and to add you to my new family. :)  

The Sidewalks of UB

My big excursion today was to get my first haircut in Mongolia. A teacher friend recommended Chris (from Germany, has lived abroad for many years, most recently four years in China, in Mongolia about three months) at Decatto Hair Studio in the Buddha Vista Mall, located in the Zaisan neighborhood of UB. This is where my American School is located and also where a good number of expats choose to live (some refer to it as the Beverly Hills of UB). It is just over three miles from our apartment in downtown UB. 
Today was overcast and it rained on my walk home, but nothing more than a comfortable drizzle. 

That said, I'm hoping that one of my science or engineering friends might be able to explain about the construction of the sidewalks here in UB. I took shots today of the various sidewalks I trod in my 7.5 miles. Nearly all of them are constructed from two different types of concrete blocks/tiles, no matter if it is a narrow or wide sidewalk. Usually the center of the sidewalk has a strip that is different in both texture and design. Though, in the top right picture, it's on the inside half of the sidewalk. I find that center strip (example--the bottom left picture of the six) to be the most difficult to balance on. If you hit it wrong with your foot, you slide off the little ridges. And when wet, it's even trickier.

The only sidewalk that I found that was solidly one type of material is the bottom middle picture. This was on Seoul street just a couple blocks from home. 

I'm still exploring the area in search of a gym, and I'm not confident I will find something that meets my preferences. Example: Today I checked out 5D Fitness. They had some cardio machines (treadmills, ellipticals, spinning cycles), some nautilus-type machines, some free weights, a room for aerobics/yoga (on your own, I think, no organized classes), and a room for wrestling (?). One month is $150. You can get six months for $600. I paid just $90/month at my Crossfit gym in Colorado Springs and had a trainer for every session and no more than 12 participants. So there is no way I'm paying $100/mo for such meager offerings. I'm still looking.....but I've also come to see that walking may be my new primary form of exercise. That....and perhaps using the gym at our secondary school and making up my own workouts. Time will tell. 


Also on this excursion, I explored markets and stores along the way. I saw Kettle Brand potato chips and Ocean Spray 100% Cranberry juice. Even saw Crest products for the first time (I was beginning to think that Colgate had a Monopoly!) But I doubt very much that this ice came all the way from America. Though it says American Ice, the rest of the writing is in Cyrillic (no idea if it's Russian or Mongolian). 

A side-note about sidewalks in Mongolia--they don't have a storm drainage plan or system in place. Puddles appear here, there, and everywhere. Thankfully, it's arid and the water will evaporate rather quickly, once it stops raining. But in the meantime, it's wise to wear rubber boots, OR simply navigate around the puddles to the best of your ability. This may mean chancing it out on the road, or venturing inland. On one such venture today, I randomly came upon this restaurant. Gangnam Korean Restaurant. Totally cracked me up! UB has restaurants for nearly every ethnicity or country or style I can think of--Irish pubs, Korean and Japanese restaurants, Pizza places, Turkish restaurants, Russian, really--nearly everything. Except Mexican. Some of you all predicted that might be what I could miss the most. I'm not craving it yet.....but will keep you posted. 

My haircut looks great. But it was a little strange to have a young Mongolian male (late teens? early 20s? I really don't know) shampoo and condition my hair. And provide a scalp massage. Did I mention there was a mirror in the ceiling? Yeah....that was weird. 

The cut looks good....but the prices in Zaisan are a bit steeper than I was expecting. I paid twice what I paid in the US (though less than I know some of my American friends opt to pay).....so I think I'm going to shop around and try another place in September. 

So.....what can you tell me about the sidewalk construction? For additional information--you should know that UB does not get LOADS of snow. Perhaps a few inches here and there, but not feet of snow and no real build up. I hear it can be icy on occasion, but this past winter was warmer and milder than "normal." I would think a pure concrete sidewalk wouldn't last long in the extreme cold....but I don't know much about the materials they are using......would love to be enlightened. 

Eating Out/Eating In

The immediate family

This past Wednesday evening marked a dinner gathering of the extended family--over 35 people in attendance. This was a special event, as Frank, Indra, and their kids (Tanan and Molor) only come home to Mongolia every year or two, or so. We gathered at the new 5 Star Shangri La Hotel. The food at Cafe Park was buffet style (reminded me of Cheyenne Mtn Resort in presentation and set up) and very tasty. I had my first REAL salad since arriving a month ago, and some very juicy and tender beef medallions (like filet mignon).  

We filled two LONG tables and people moved around to talk and catch up with one another. While many of the cousins speak some English, this was their first encounter with me and it was therefore comprised of introductions and watching of and smiling at me. Zorig tells me that over time, they will converse with me more, and begin to ask questions. 

That said, it was nice to see so many smiling faces. It reminded me a bit of what a family reunion in America is like. The small children running around and playing, the older kids congregating and talking, and the adults moving around the room to catch up on one another's lives. I sat and talked with Zorig, and enjoyed observing my new extended family. I couldn't understand their words. I am different looking from everyone else (except Frank--he's the other white guy). But the feeling of inclusion and belonging was yet there. Lots of smiles and warmth.

There are plenty of places to eat out in UB. From traditional Mongolian offerings to the Japanese owned Cafe & Bakery down the street (where one can get lunch for about $4) to American style eateries like Rosewood Kitchen & Enoteca. Every city block is littered with supermarkets, boutiques, and restaurants. Oh, and Karaoke bars too! 

At home, preparing food is a bit different. I'm yet adjusting to my new kitchen where things are smaller than they are in the US. From the stove (it has 4 burners--but they are closer together and the oven is more narrow), to the sink, to the refrigerator (though it's about half freezer/half fridge--only slightly more fridge space than freezer). And just as there are no clothes dryers here, dishwashers are also not customary. We humans are the dishwashers. 

There is plenty of food across the street in the grocery department of Nomin at the State Department Store. However, if one has the time, it's better to hoof it a ways to Mercury or Saruul Market as the offerings are a bit more appealing to the Western eye. I went there yesterday to get ground beef and a few other things from the mini-Ikea store. 

Yes, shopping here is a bit like a treasure hunt for us expats. We are always searching for familiar things. Sometimes we find them (I found Jiffy Creamy PB and Kraft Parmesan cheese), sometimes we don't (I can't find Shout or any similar spray for stain removal--we have Vanish, which works, but I choose to hunt for the convenience of a spray bottle). As my new friend Christy says, when you see something, you should get it! One never knows how long before the next container shipment with that item may arrive. Perhaps never. I'm still weighing my options. Can't bring myself to pay $10 for a small quart size bag of nearly expired almonds, but I did spend a little extra for this salted, sweet cream butter. While this country is LOADED with dairy products, I have not been able to find butter that resembles what I was used to buying at Walmart/Safeway/King Soopers. But this.....this butter from New Zealand is good. And I simply toast the bread and savor the butter taste. No need for jelly, honey, or jam. 

Happy Hunting!