First Trip to China

Shanghai selfie with greenery

Last weekend I journeyed to China, Shanghai to be exact, for the first time (to both). Prior to the trip my only knowledge of China was the Beijing airport. And that's never been a positive or a comfortable experience. That proved to yet be true this trip as there were no direct flights from UB to Shanghai and I had to connect through Beijing (of course). On the way there I had exactly 1 hour and 45 minutes between landing and take off. Thank goodness I didn't have to pee....because I was either in motion, or in line (immigration, transfer, security) the entire time. To make it that much more entertaining, I de-boarded a plane in the International Terminal (E), walked through Immigration (had necessary Visa), then caught the tram to terminal C to make my Domestic Transfer. Had to again go through Security (with another document check just before), then walked to my gate where I immediately walked down the gangway. Oh wait...then down some stairs to where we were herded onto a bus and then driven BACK to Terminal E where we climbed stairs to another gangway to board our plan. It was literally just a few gates down from where I de-boarded!!! And may I add....every line in Beijing is LONG. Bottom line: They need to employ more staff. 

In Shanghai, the Hongqaio Airport was FAR more accommodating and properly staffed. On arrival there were clear signs on where to go to get a taxi. I think there may have been 500 people in line (perhaps a slight exaggeration...but not by much), but it moved swiftly and efficiently. I landed before 10 pm and was in  my hotel by 11, and it was a 22 km and 30 minute drive (with the traffic we encountered). 

Egg hardboiled in tea...on the breakfast buffet

I am ignorant when it comes to China. I wanted to get my phone out and take a picture at the airport....and then second guessed myself and thought..."oh, will someone confiscate it then?" Yes...I recognize the silliness and stupidity of that fear. I was in a foreign land and didn't know at all what to expect. Bad on me for not researching or inquiring. :(

What can I say? Well, I hated not having access to my email (all my email is through Gmail--including my WORK account, we are a Google School for goodness sake!) or to Facebook (proper or Messenger). Honestly, it felt like I went to another dimension or something. I had no cell service....no email...no messenger. Thank goodness I thought to tell Enji to add WeChat so that I COULD communicate with home. WeChat is *basically* China's version of Facebook. I did a little research.....and yep, it was developed by Chinese citizens. Okay, I thought....so is it about keeping the money in China? OR is it about control and censorship? According to this Reuters article, Google products of every sort have been blocked. There's even a site dedicated to the censorship, Greatfire.org analyzes and discusses censorship in China. Now....I've only been to China once and for 3 days. Did I survive my unplugged time....of course!  I have some new-made friends that live in China and love it--most of them are married to Chinese men (visit WWAM Bam to learn more--I'm a contributor)....but I have to say, I hated not having access to the tools of my life and existence. I could not communicate with my husband. I couldn't share pictures for my mom or dad or siblings to see. And frankly, that pissed me off! I have a VPN....but not one that is China Grade, apparently. 

When I spoke with my fellow educators and one that taught in China--the ones attending the AP training that took me to China--they explained this was China's control over the poor people. Anyone who has any money has a VPN and can have any online life they desire. So....that's disturbing!! Right? 

Skyline view from the Bund

The complaints out of me....I will say that I had the opportunity to venture into downtown, or rather to waterfront Shanghai, on Saturday evening. I was so appreciative of the fellow educators who teach in China for inviting me along. They knew the small words and cultural nuances necessary for a night out. I was dazed and confused....to say the least. I cannot begin to express how I felt on the pedestrian street that took us to the Bund. I was surrounded by HORDES of people--mostly Asian, certainly some foreigners--and overcome by the lights (think Vegas on steroids) and sounds. It was consuming and staggering. UB is the largest city I've ever lived in at 1.4M. Shanghai is at 24M. OMG. Can you even imagine!?!?? To put it in perspective, NYC is 8.6M. I've not yet visited NYC. I'd like to. 

I will wrap up by saying....the AP training was good. I enjoyed talking with fellow educators--I was in a class of about 31 and my table had two women teaching in China and a man teaching in Tokyo--we got along famously.  I am beyond THRILLED to take on this challenge and forgot how much I LOVE teaching literature and writing. I am hard at work reading (currently tackling A Farewell to Arms) and preparing for the fall. My flight home was uneventful. But I will leave you with this strange observation. What kind of boob job did this grandma get? It's from the take off and landing video that Air China shows before takeoff. She's sitting next to an elderly white-haired man. I meant to get a picture of the young woman in the video...she makes Barbie look symmetrical and balanced!!!

Tsagaan Sar, Take Two

Believe it or not, I'm celebrating my second Tsagaan Sar in Mongolia. I wrote about my First Tsagaan Sar over a year ago, this year it came later. Hard to believe but March begins tomorrow. 

Last year I explained that the holiday is a blend of Thanksgiving with New Year's plus a little something extra. That yet remains true. However, as we visited yesterday (three homes between 1 and 9 pm)--the day is known as "Visiting Day"--it occurred to me just how much the day is a marathon of eating and drinking (for the visitors). It's a day of work--constant cooking and cleaning--for those that host. I can't lie, I'm relieved that we don't host and only visit. That's a selfish statement, I know, but it's honest. 

As for the "marathon," I think about just the variety of things I drank yesterday, visiting three homes, and it included, milk tea at each place (you MUST begin your visit with the drinking and eating of WHITE things), then in no particular order: vodka, seabuckthorn juice, airag (fermented mare's milk), black tea, red wine, and some Chinese sake. I declined on the beer and whiskey options. As soon as you drain your cup or mug or shot glass, someone is right there to refill it. 

We celebrated this year's Tsagaan Sar differently. As Enji lives primarily with us now, we celebrated Tsagaan Sar eve just the three of us--our nuclear family--which I really enjoyed. Zorig and I had shopped the day before and he began cooking in the afternoon for our evening meal. We spent time cleaning our apartment (think spring cleaning!) and preparing for this new year--the Year of the Fire Rooster. Zorig laid out our table with some of the traditional items (aaruul, dried fruits, biscuits, vodka). When the food was ready, we all changed our clothes into something more than sweats, and sat down to dine together at the table. Zorig toasted the New Year and wished us all happiness and health and love. We ate and drank and talked. It was lovely. 

Then on Visiting Day, yesterday, we relaxed in the morning--after getting up "early" as is tradition--and having some milk tea with dumplings in it. In the afternoon we visited three family member's homes, same ones as last year. We may have one more place to visit today as we ran out of time last night, arriving home after 9 pm. Because we went later in the day, there wasn't the huge crowd that we had last year at the first place. This made for more enjoyable visiting, in my opinion, though it lacked the big family photo op. The day was sunny and pleasant, reaching nearly 30 degrees fahrenheit. While I can't say I conversed more this year (I confess that I do not have a talent for learning languages and have temporarily suspended my Mongolian language sessions for the time being), I will say that I understood a lot more of what was being talked about. As I mentioned last year, some of that is interpreted through body language and gestures, but this year I did understand many more words being said. 

Each place you go, you stay for at least 45 minutes or so, as you must wait for a fresh plate of buuz (steamed meat dumplings--see pic on last year's post) to be set on the table. I confess that while I CANNOT eat buuz like a Mongolian--I really do not know where they put them!--I do try one at each place to make comparisons. I love how diverse and different they can be. Did the maker use minced meat or ground meat? Is it mutton or beef or horse? Did they use onions? What about the fat--sheep tail or something else? Spices used? Tightly packed,or loose? I can't nearly tell you all nuances between them, but they ARE different. I can tell you that I ate more than the customary one at one place yesterday! 

This year I'm more in awe of the pace of the day. People go from one place to the next, eating and drinking at each, for hours and hours. Hosts are concerned with keeping your cups and plates full, it's rude to not eat or drink. This year I was more confident, knowing that I'd always enjoy the aaruul (I've acquired the taste for it), try one of the buuz, and sample the vinegar based salads. I was even brave enough yesterday to sample the potato salads at a couple of places. It tasted better than I expected. :) Proving once again, it's good to be brave and try something new or different. 

Enji and I still have today and tomorrow to relax before going back to school on Thursday. But then it's a very short week!. Next week is broken up with International Women's Day on Wednesday--no school then either. Before we know it, Spring Break will be upon us.

Things begin to Thaw

Sukhbaatar Square in early morning

I had opportunity this week to walk across Sukhbaatar Square as the sun was rising. I hadn't noticed before the lights draped over all the evergreen trees in front of the ice rink set up on the south side. The morning sky was fairly clear and it was nice to be out and walking first thing. It's gotten too warm for snow-pants, but I did wear long johns--which proved most necessary. 

I know it will seem strange to watch this brief video, but I have to share the joy I felt when I watched some things begin to thaw out this past weekend--even though we are yet degrees away from being above freezing. I guess with a lot of sunshine and temps in the mid 20s, things can begin to melt. In fact, outside our apartment building there is a HUGE sheet of ice to navigate around. Lord knows how long before it's warm enough for it all to evaporate. 

I snapped that video clip this past Saturday when I was out on a reconnaissance mission to find the Chinese embassy. Turns out I've been walking right past that embassy each time I've gone to the American Embassy. I just didn't know it. 

The early morning photo was taken on Wednesday when I went to the Chinese embassy to apply for a travel visa. I'm hoping to go to Shanghai soon for some training. I stood OUTSIDE for TWO HOURS! My toes were cold and my teeth were beginning to rattle. The 30 or 40 of us waiting out there in the freezing cold were tap-tap-tapping our feet, swaying back and forth, and hoping more than 5 minutes had passed since we last checked our phone. Whew. I think it WAS something like 5 degrees fahrenheit that morning.

As I'd been told by friends, if you don't get there early to get a good place in line, then you could be there all day. They are only open from 9:30 to Noon on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Their website says they open at 9:00. You have to know someone and/or look at the posted sign next to the SIDE entrance to the Embassy. I was third in line and out in less than 30 minutes--so I suppose the cold wait was worth it. I return next week to pick up my passport--assumedly with an approved travel visa inside. 

Yes, spring is in the air here. We'll be off the last couple days of the month to celebrate Tsagaan Sar--translates to the White Month--and otherwise known as the Mongolian Lunar New year. We'll be saying goodbye to the year of the monkey and moving into the year of the rooster. As you can see, we are in DOUBLE positive DIGITS for the next 10 days or more. This is in fahrenheit, of course. I still can't speak in Celsius. 

Tsagaan Sar, then International Women's Day, and before we know it, we'll be off on Spring Break which is the first week of April this year (too early IMHO). My summer break doesn't start until June 23, so there's plenty of work yet to do. But with the days getting only longer and warmer, you can feel it around the bend.